A broken nail doesn’t sound like anything serious, but they can cause your dog a lot of pain, and sometimes it can be a symptom of something more serious.
In most cases the nail is cracked near where the nail comes out of the flesh. Sometimes the nail is missing altogether. If the nail breaks through the quick (blood vessel/vein) in the nail, there can be a lot of blood – all over the room – don’t panic – your dog won’t bleed out but it can look dramatic. In many cases, when the nail cracks, it is painful and dogs will lick at the nail persistently, sometimes causing a rash or wet eczema from all the licking. Because it is so painful, some dogs will try to pull the paw away, lick at the owner’s hands to stop them touching the foot, and some may bite so it’s important to be safe and use a muzzle if your dog is very sore to get a better look.
The simplest treatment involves pulling the loose piece of nail off, cleaning and dressing the foot, and prescribing painkillers and possibly antibiotics. This should be done by a vet or nurse. If the nail is very loose, it can be done quickly but if the nail is cracked but still attached firmly, the dog may need to be sedated to have it done. Sometimes x rays of the toe are taken to find out if there is a crack in the nail or bone if the toe seems painful but nothing is obvious to the naked eye. This would also be done to check for cancers or tumours of the toe or if simple nail removal doesn’t help. Thus a cracked nail can end up being quite expensive! Your pet will be sent home with a bandage which should be removed/changed in about 3 days time.
If your vet suspects a tumour or immune condition, the toe may need to be amputated together with the nail and sent to a laboratory for a diagnosis. Removal of 1 toe usually doesn’t affect a pets quality of life significantly. Working dogs such as racing greyhounds may be affected if they lose a toe.
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Leishmaniasis is a disease caused by a single celled parasite called Leishmania and is transmitted by a biting sandfly. (1) The disease is common in tropical and subtropical areas where the sandfly is found such as the Mediterranean area (Italy, Spain and Portugal), the Balkans, central and southwest Asia, north and northwest China, north and sub-Saharan Africa, and parts of Central and South America. (6) The disease has now moved to Northwest Italy and North America. (2) Leishmania infantum is the strain of the parasite found in the old world and Leishmania chagasi in the New World. (6) Unfortunately efforts to control Leishmaniasis in dogs have been largely unsuccessful. (3)
There are two types of Leishmaniasis in dogs: a skin form and a severe form that affects the internal organs, known as black fever. (1) Humans can also be infected. (2)
Leishmania species have a life cycle that involves two hosts—a mammal and a sand fly. Dogs are the normal carriers of the parasite, but it can also rarely be transmitted directly from dog to dog. (6) Traveling to regions where the sandfly is found is the most common way of picking up Leishmaniasis. However, receiving a blood transfusion from an infected dog can also lead to Leishmaniasis. (1)
Female sand flies pick up the Leishmania parasite when they feed on an infected dog and swallow the parasite. Both sick and infected but ‘well’ dogs are capable of spreading the disease. Once swallowed, the parasite changes into a second form, called a promastigote which attaches to the gut wall of the sand fly, multiplies and changes again into an infective form. When the sand fly bites a dog, the promastigotes are injected into the animal’s skin. Inside the dog’s skin, they multiply inside certain types of white blood cells, the macrophages, and become amastigotes. (3)
After being bitten, there is an interval of one month to several years before dogs become ill. In these dogs, the parasite lies dormant, sometimes for years before a stressor allows the parasite to multiply and cause disease. (5) In virtually all dogs, it spreads throughout the body to the internal organs such as the liver, kidney and spleen, causing a chronic, debilitating, and sometimes fatal disease, (3) with many dogs dying of kidney failure. Males and females are infected equally, but males are more inclined to get the internal form. (1)
There are many different symptoms in this complex disease. From most to least common are:
Owners of pet dogs have reported that some dogs become more aggressive as the first sign of Leishmaniasis. (6)
Your veterinarian will perform a thorough physical exam on your dog, taking into account where you have travelled. Blood tests for organ function and blood count should be run. Your vet can perform a snap test in house to test if your dog is positive for the disease, which is very quick. The urine should be checked as well. Tissue samples from the skin, spleen, bone marrow, or lymph nodes may be taken for laboratory culturing to confirm the diagnosis, as well as blood to check for anti Leishmania antibodies. (1)(3)
Diagnosis can be complicated by false positives caused by the leptospirosis vaccine and false negatives caused by testing methods lacking sufficient sensitivity. (2) The new snap test differentiates between a real infection and a vaccine antibody reaction.
In areas where the known vector is a sandfly, sandfly repellent collars should be worn at all times. The sandfly is most active at dusk and dawn; keeping dogs indoors during those peak times will help prevent infection.
In 2003, Fort Dodge Wyeth released the Leshmune vaccine in Brazil for L. donovani (also referred to as kala-azar in Brazil). Studies indicated up to 87% protection. Most common side effects from the vaccine have been noted as anorexia and local swelling. (2) There is also a vaccine available now on the market for Leishmania in Europe. The vaccine has three parts and should be given over a period of six weeks. because it doesn’t provide 100% protection dogs should still wear fly repellent and not walk at dusk and dawn.
Unless your dog is extremely ill, it will be treated as an outpatient. Very thin and chronically infected animals may need to be put to sleep. If your dog is not severely infected, your veterinarian will prescribe a high-quality protein diet, or a diet designed specifically for renal insufficiency if necessary. (1)
Canine cases of leishmaniasis are unfortunately much more resistant to treatment than are human infections. For this reason a complete cure is rare. Relapses are common and the situation is complicated by the fact that frequent, long term drug use can both be harmful to the dog and create drug resistant microorganisms. (3) (6)
Maintenance therapy with allopurinol (10 mg/kg) decreases parasitemia, maintains infected dogs in an asymptomatic state, and decreases the likelihood of the flies picking the parasite back up. (6) A dog with leishmaniasis can live a happy and healthy life for many years. Allopurinol tablets are used for treatment of gout in humans. Vets in countries like Greece, Spain, Portugal, Turkey, routinely treat infected dogs rather than euthanise them. A well fed dog will do far better than a neglected one. Early treatment is also very important. (4)
L. donovani
Antimonial resistant
Polyene antibiotic amphotericin B
L. infantum
Amphotericin B
Meglumine antimoniate
Pentavalent antimonials
Miltefosine
Allopurinol (2)
Antimoniate (Glucantime®) associated with Allopurinol (Zyloric®)
Aminosidine (Gabbriomycin®)
Spraying with insecticides inside the house can help to control the sandfly. (5)
Your veterinarian will want to monitor your dog for clinical improvement as a relapse may occur few months to a year after the initial therapy; your veterinarianshould recheck your dog’s condition at least every two months after completion of the initial treatment. (2)
Dogs need regular monitoring via blood tests. At least once a year a test should be done to measure the level of Leishmaniasis antibodies in the blood. This test can be done in the UK. A general blood test should also be done to ensure that the dog’s kidneys and other organs are all functioning well. (4) If you live in a high risk area, blood screening should be done on a regular basis. This allows for an infection to be caught and treated early and avoid the risk of spreading the infection. Insect repellents containing DEET should be used at all hours of the day, and homes should be well-screened so that flies are less likely to gain entrance to the house. (3)
There is NO danger of Leishmaniasis being transmitted to other dogs in the UK and there is no danger of the disease being transmitted to humans. The sandfly that transmits the disease does not exist in the UK and canine Leishmaniasis is not the same disease that affects humans in some parts of the world. (4)
1.http://www.petmd.com/dog/conditions/infectious-parasitic/c_dg_leishmaniasis
2.Leishmaniasis Wikipedia
3.http://bakerinstitute.vet.cornell.edu/animalhealth/page.php?id=1099
4.http://sos-animals.org.uk/canine-diseases/
5.http://www.stray-afp.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/Leishmaniasis-in-Dogs.pdf
6.Leishmaniasis
Caring for a dog during the winter months requires you to be extra vigilant. The harsh, cold conditions of winter weather can wreak havoc on man’s best friend. There are many things you can do to ensure your dog is properly cared for throughout the rough winter season.
Your dog’s paws are very delicate and can easily become injured during the winter. The salt that is used on pavement and steps to prevent you from slipping on the ice can be very damaging to your dog’s paws. Too much contact for an undesirable period of time can result in chemical burns. When you must walk your dog outside during the winter make sure that if there is snow on ground your dog walks through it rather than footpaths and sidewalks that have had salt applied to them. It is also crucial to make sure that your dog does not lick their paws after they have been exposed to salt. The best way to avoid your dog licking the salt off their paws when you get them home from a walk is to leave a bowl of warm water by your front door, as well as a cloth that you can use to clean off their paws and your shoes.
If your dog has particularly hairy feet you will also have to worry about ice balls forming between each of their toes. The best way to keep this from happening is to frequently trim the fur that surrounds the pads of the dog’s feet.
There are products on the market that you can use to protect the dog’s paws during the winter months, such as Bag Balm, Safe Paw and dog booties. The Bag Balm can be found at virtually any pharmacy and can be applied to your dog every other day. Using a thin coat of Bag Balm on them will prevent their paws from bleeding or becoming cracked due to the cold.
Safe Paw is a pet-friendly product you can use to deice your dog’s paws. There are also waxes such as the Musher’s Secret, which you simply put on the dog’s paws before taking them out on a walk to create a protective barrier that prevents their paws from becoming injured. The wax simply wears off after a while and you can feel free to apply it again each time you walk the dog. Dog booties offer the highest level of protection possible for their paws. Not only will they protect their paws from the cold of the snow they will also protect them from stepping on any sharp objects that might be buried under snow. It is extremely important to make sure the booties fit the dog’s paws in order for them to provide as much protection as possible.
Just as people get sicker during the winter time than any other time of the year the same thing applies to dogs. You will want to watch their health especially carefully during the winter months of the year. They are more vulnerable to certain things during the winter, such as being exposed to antifreeze. Since it can kill your dog you must make sure they never ingest any antifreeze, which can be difficult because dogs like the taste and scent of it.
Many people don’t realise it, but dogs are vulnerable to dehydration during the winter as much as they are the rest of the year. You will want to make sure your dog has access to fresh water at all times to prevent them from becoming dehydrated, even during the cold winter months when they are likely less active. Do not make the mistake of thinking that if your dog licks snow they are getting the water they need.
Keeping your dog away from heat sources throughout the home, such as heated blankets and fireplaces, can help preserve their good health. Even portable heaters can severely burn a dog, so if you have one at home, put it in a place where the dog can’t get to it.
The more your dog is outside during the winter the more food you will want to make sure they get. They need more food during the winter because it is especially important to ensure their body temperature is regulated. Too little food can cause their body temperature to drop low enough to cause health problems.
Just before the winter season begins take your dog to the vet for a checkup so that they can determine whether or not the dog has any medical problems that could make them more likely to become sick during the winter months. If they do, your vet can take preventative measures to try and keep them healthy.
While you are spending the winter season making sure your dog is loved and well taken care of there are dogs out there that don’t having loving homes and caregivers. This is where the U.K.’s RSPCA Choice Initiative comes into play. The Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (RSPCA) is an organisation dedicated to re-homing dogs in need. Their Choice Initiative program allows the public to choose which of the organisation’s many projects they want to help finance by making a cash donation. The public can dictate to the organisation how the want the money that they are donating to be used. Current projects they are accepting cash donations for include the Emergency Seal Appeal and the Orphan Wildlife Ward. These ideas for fundraising are popular among people who want to help a specific type of animal. Each project run by the organization is benefitting greatly from the Choice Initiative program.
Keeping all of these things in mind will allow you to properly care for your dog each and every winter. Their health is as important as the health of any and all human beings.
]]>Hi Kathy,
How are you?
I have a 2 year old cat that was bottle fed and he still roots. He doesn’t
do it all the time, but if I take him in my room just the two of us, he
will root to the point where he will push you out of the bed or put
bruises on you. Oddly, sitting in the middle of my bed was usually where I
fed him and that is the only place he roots. But, I don’t think he will
ever outgrow it. He definitely wasn’t weaned too early from the bottle as
he bottle fed until he was 10 weeks old (I got him when he was 3 weeks
old – the owners let the mama cat out and she got hit by a car). Yes, he
was eating food at 6 weeks, but he got a bedtime bottle until I ran out of
formula. Rotten. Spoiled rotten.
Hi there,
In the behaviour world, we find that bottle fed cats always have some sort
of rooting behaviour”.
They didn’t have the mother cat or other siblings around so the behaviour
was transferred to the “human mother”. It doesn’t matter that he wasn’t
weaned too early, it is how he was brought up.
We even find some cats that haven’t been bottle fed rooting – Siamese are
often associated with the behaviour.
It is comforting to the cat, and when they do it they go into a trance, much
like being on a “drug high”.
In some cases, putting a calming collar on the cat can help, but I would
suggest that if you don’t want him to root on you, then you make it
unpleasant to do so. Maybe wear a plastic mac which is slippery and the
cat’s paws will slip – even just covering yourself with thick plastic could
help.
You can also remove yourself when the cat starts doing the rooting. As soon
as he starts, get up and walk away. If you keep doing this then he should
stop.
Finally, don’t allow him to go to the area where he roots. Block it off and go to another
part of the bed if possible.
He is not being naughty, just doing something that he really enjoys – very
much like a child sucking his thumb.”
Also see our article Kitten kneading, rooting and sucking
Regards,
Kathy Clayton
Behaviorist
Your Own Vet
https://yourownvet.com
Dear Your Own Vet’s Animal Behaviorist,
My question is that I am trying to determine what dog is the Alpha dog out of my three dogs. I have a 2 year old Male Presa Canario (Mastiff), a 5 year old Male Pit Bull and a 10 year old female Pit-Bull mix that I am pretty sure is the Omega. But the two males that I have had since birth exhibit Alpha traits. My Presa is pushy, shoves the other dogs out of way and does not allow the other dogs any affection before him or maybe on somedays not at all. He is not food aggressive toward me or the female dog but will not let the male Pit-bull eat his food/and then takes ownership over the food. I must separate my male Presa or he will be very vicious towards my male Pit bull.
But yet he will clean the Pit Bull. Is this not a submissive behaviour? And during play he is much bigger than the Pit Bull so it’s like he does not want to get that aggressive in their play. It appears that when the Pit Bull starts to get mad or more aggressive in their play, my Presa will hold him down with his big paw and start licking him and the Presa also rolls on his back as though he is submitting.
My Pit Bull also appears to want to walk ahead of the Presa when walking. Outside play the Pit Bull is much more aggressive in play. I want to keep the order and not disrupt their pack system by not recognizing who is who. Can you shed a light?
Thank You,
Kelly
Dear Kelly,
Thank you for contacting me about your three dogs and their hierarchy.
Whenever I go to do a behavioural consultation, problems occur due to problems with hierarchy.
Although everyone talks about the “alpha male”, it is actually the female that keeps everyone in check. It is the female that will put the males into their place and they will respect her. When people push the female down in favour of a male or males, then a lot of problems can occur.
The female should be given everything first – greeting, praise, food, rewards etc. Male dogs accept this and it helps to keep the group in order.
Your biggest problem is between your two males – both strong breeds and with the genetic ability to fight. The Presa is coming up to two years which is the age of maturity. He will start to push for hierarchy in small ways at first, but very soon could have an all out fight with your Pitbull to gain control. You are going to have to watch very carefully to see if the Pitbull can keep the higher status between the two, or if you feel that the Presa now needs to become your number 2 dog. Just the size alone of the Presa and being younger could be the reason for swopping them over. You also say that the Presa is pushing the other dogs out of the way and won’t let them have affection – this is showing that he wants the higher status. Of course he can’t push the female out of the way, but he could get attention above the Pitbull. Make sure that you give the female the attention in front of him and that you don’t accept him pushing her out of the way.
Many dogs do clean each other. When they are in a calm state they can revert to affectionate behaviour, and grooming of each other is part of this behaviour. However it is not necessarily submissive behaviour, as I have seen high ranking dogs do it to lower ranking dogs. It can be a sign of “I can clean you as I am higher than you”.
Another big factor with the males, is whether they are neutered or not? Un-neutered males have all the extra testosterone in their body, and this will increase in times of tension. I personally believe in having all males neutered if they are not going to be mated (and even then, I leave breeding to breeders). Neutering does not make a male dog any less of a male. It gets rid of the testosterone rushes, and prevents prostate cancer in the long run. Male dogs also suffer when females come into season and they are now frustrated that they can’t mate. This can spark of fighting between two males.
It would certainly help to a degree to have both males neutered, but of course hierarchy is still going to be important.
Food of course is a huge catalyst for fighting. I would separate all three at feeding times and put the food down in a specific order – always the female first. If you decide to make the Presa number two, then his bowl would go down second and then the Pitbull third. Obviously if they are in separate areas, then you would just walk to give the food in the hierarchy order.
Everything that you have described between the two males is showing me that they are trying to work out their hierarchy between each other – the Presa holds the Pitbull down with his paw, but also rolls over; and the Pitbull wants to be ahead when walking (in fact it should be the female ahead). I would also do some individual walking with each dog just to reinforce how you would like them to walk, and then put them back together.
I am not sure if you have done any training with these dogs, but I would suggest that you do some classes with the males. This will show them that in fact you are the highest in rank and they need to listen to you when you tell them to do something.
I also believe in stimulating a dog’s brain. Maybe some agility for the Pitbull? Even the Presa, depending on his size – but I do have a Newfoundland that does agility at my dog school, so I’m sure that the Presa might enjoy doing some agility. I know that you take them on a walk, but perhaps a run would be better – really get their energy out.
Dogs who are stimulated are less likely to get into a fight. However, it is usually a catalyst that will cause a fight. Dogs can live together for many years and then something can set off a fight and they cannot live together again. It is sad, but it happens. Let’s hope that you can get your hierarchy correct to avoid any problems.
I hope this helps.
Regards,
Kathy Clayton
Behaviorist
Your Own Vet
https://yourownvet.com
Chairman of the Animal Behaviour Consultants of SA
Chairman of Dancing with Dogs in Africa
Senior Accredited Animal Behaviour Consultant (ABC of SA)
Practice No: SAABC/1998/008/C/F
Professional Dog Trainer and owner of K C Dog School
BA (UNISA) HDE (Johannesburg College of Education)
Qualified KUSA Judge in Obedience, Agility, Dog Jumping, Dog Carting
International judge for World Canine Freestyle Organization
kcdogs@global.co.za
www.kcdogschool.co.za
http://www.kcdogs.stemtechbiz.com
011 783 3042 082 454 1750
Mange is caused by a small mite that lives in the skin. There are two types of mange that dogs get because there are two different mites that cause disease. Demodectic mange in dogs is caused by the skin mite Demodex canis and Sarcoptic mange is caused the mite Sarcoptes scabei. Dogs with short hair and more prone to mange but the west Highland White Terrier is also susceptible.
The Demodex mite looks like a miniature crocodile or cigar with legs and causes hair loss. The mites live within the skin and most puppies are born with the mites in their systems. The immune system keeps their numbers under control but disease can flare up in puppies between the ages of 6 and 12 months and also in older animals who are immunosuppressed.
The mites mate and lay eggs inside the skin which causes the hairs to fall out and inflammation of the skin. A small slightly bald patch appears, often on the head and neck, but also on the legs and body in puppies. Owners often think the puppy has ringworm or allergies, but in many cases the bald patch isn’t itchy at all and is only worried about when the patch gets big or multiple patches appear on the body.
Older dogs can get a severe recurring form of mange where the mites affect the skin of the feet and round the mouth. This type of mange often gets wet and infected and dogs get boils and pustules in the skin which respond to antibiotics but come back as soon as the antibiotics are finished.
Demodex isn’t contagious which means your dog won’t give it to another dog and it doesn’t affect people at all. Cats most often present with itchy, crusty faces and ears when they have mange. Cats are either infected with Demodex cati or Demodex gatoi.
Sarcoptic mange is a very itchy type of mange and if often confused with skin allergies. It can affect any age of dog, is contagious to other dogs and also to people. In people the disease is known as Scabies and is also very itchy with small pimples and a rash seen on the lower belly and upper groin area.
The Sarcoptes mange mite looks like a spider under the microscope with a big round body and little legs.
Dogs affected with Sarcoptic mange typically get very itchy all over but scaling, redness and hair loss can be seen on the elbows and ears in some cases.
Demodectic mange is easily diagnosed by your vet. It can be seen under the microscope when your vet does a test known as a skin scraping. A blade with oil or paraffin is rubbed on the top of the bald patch of skin to get mites and flakes of skin off. Your vet will check the scraping under a microscope to see if there are Demodex mites present. If there is any baldness and mites are seen, it is best to treat for Demodectic mange.
Demodectic mange can also be picked up on a skin biopsy. These will be taken in severe or recurring skin disease to look for the underlying cause of disease. Sometimes in severely thickened skin, the mites are not easily seen on a skin scraping, but can be picked up on a biopsy and should always be treated.
Sarcoptic mange is hard to pick up. If your vet is lucky, it will be seen on a skin scraping but not commonly. They may not be picked up on biopsy either. If your vet suspects that your dog may have Sarcoptic mange, he or she will treat for it. A careful history will also aid diagnosis – for example of more than one pet is affected, the owner has a curious itchy rash or the dog is intensely itchy and doesn’t respond to steroid injections (cortisone.) The treatment is much easier than the diagnosis as the mites are tricky to find!
Sarcoptic mange is easily treated with monthly prescription flea drops such as Advocate, Stronghold or Revolution. The drops are applied to the back of the neck in a dirty dog and work within 48 hours. Collies are related breeds may not be able to use these drops and may need to be dipped.
Demodectic mange can also be treated with the above mentioned flea products but some cases are resistant to the drops and will need weekly dips with a very strong insecticide. Examples are Aludex and Amitraz. Most vets will dip your dog once or twice a week at the vet’s rooms as the dip can be toxic, especially if it is swallowed by the pet. Certain worming tablets that contain Milbemycin will also help in the treatment of Demodectic mange but may not cure the dog, just control the infection. Collies and related breeds may not be able to take these tablets. Some countries will stock an ointment with a small amount of pesticide in it that can be used to treat very small patches of Demodectic mange, or mange on the face, for example, where there is a concern that the dog will swallow the dip.
There are also injections of Ivermectin or Doramectin that can be used by your vet, off license in some countries that help to kill the mange mites.
Puppies will be either treated monthly with the drops on the back of the neck until there are two negative skin scrapings two weeks apart, or dipped weekly until there are two negative skin scrapings two weeks apart. Puppies that are being dipped should not be using the flea drops on the back of the neck at the same time. Puppies on the ointment should also have two negative scrapings two weeks apart. Most of these puppies will be cured once the course is complete.
Older dogs with recurring Demodectic mange often have immune disorders. These dogs may never fully recover and some will need treatment such as the dips when the skin is bad and the worming tablets or drops on the back of the neck for life to keep the disease under control. These dogs can also be prone to getting nasty bacterial skin infections with boils and pustules especially on the feet and legs and round the mouth. These dogs will need antibiotics for 8-12 weeks to clear the infection up as well as treatment for the mange.
Cats can be treated with the flea drops and the worming tablets or injections but cannot be dipped or use the ointment as this is too poisonous for them.
Dear Your Own Vet’s Behaviorist,
I have a 3 year old female shiba inu who has a problem with being in a
crate when we are not home and at night. It’s been a problem since we
got her when she was a few months old from a pet store. First she would
go potty in the kennel. It was a huge one so we got one of those metal
wire ones that have the divider to make it smaller or bigger as the dog
grows. Well she stopped going potty in it and decided to figure out how
to escape from it. She would push her nose between the wires and bend
them. She finally figured out how to just get the whole thing to
collapse on its self and get out. So we moved to a smaller plastic
kennel. Well she figured out a way to literally eat her way out of it!
We came home to her with a hole in it big enough to stick her head out!
Its been down hill from there. we have gone through about 4 or 5 kennels
over the last 3 years because she destroys them. We have tried to just
let be be loose in the house and she does ok for a few days but then she
starts peeing on the floor. We dont own our home and we have heated
floors. The constant peeing on the floor is going to ruin the floors and
we can’t afford to fix them. We have tried giving her treats in the
kennel, extra exercise, we are at a loss. I don’t know what else to try
or do. I’m so frustrated that I’m to the point of just finding a new
home for her. I don’t want to because she is family but I also don’t want
to be mad at her everyday. I hope you are able to help us come up with
some ideas to try so we can fix this issue. My dog hates the crate.
Hi there,
With regard to your query about your female Shiba Inu and being crated, it is very obvious that she is not happy being in a crate.
You don’t mention just how many hours she is crated (you just say when you are not home and at night), and if the time is for many hours, then I can understand her frustration.
I don’t believe in crating dogs for long periods, as it can certainly cause frustration and a reason to try and escape. I always say to owners, image being in a jail cell with no books, no tv, no radio, no newspapers and just doing nothing for hours and hours. It would drive us humans insane,and so too with dogs.
The Shiba Inu as a breed is a very active dog and new owners are often warned to be careful when they are off lead as they LOVE to run. Well, imagine how a dog must feel being in a crate for so many hours at a time.
Then, what is happening when you are at home? Are you taking her on a long walk / run to get rid of that energy, do you play with her? This breed is also very intelligent and takes to training very well.
I even know some Shiba Inu’s that have been trained for agility – what a great way to exercise and also stimulate the brain.
When she is left out of the crate, you say that she pees on the floor – well, does she have a designated area where she knows where to do her business? If it is only in her crate, that she has just escaped from, then she is definitely not going to go back there to do her business.
I do understand your frustration with her escaping all the time, and that she can’t mess on the floors – but she too is a very frustrated dog.
Is there no place that you would be able to leave her during the day – such as doggy daycare? This would be so much better than leaving her in a crate during the day. She needs company and to run and be a dog.
I suggest that you sit down and make a list of the pro’s and con’s of keeping this dog. Once you do this in a calm, rational way, you will then be able to make a decision of whether it is kinder to keep her crated or to find a home where she can be happy and have more freedom.
I personally would like her not to be crated any more. Give her more room – maybe two rooms or a kitchen that has tiles and make a special area for her to do her business. Also make sure that she has lots of toys to play with to stimulate her brain, and even get the interactive toys which she will enjoy.
Just like humans, dogs keep their stress in their mouths, so chewing is a way of relieving stress. The fact that she is chewing to escape just tells you how stressed she is being crated. Unfortunately, she has now done this so often that it has become a habit. It doesn’t matter how many crates you buy, she is going to escape from them which ever way she can.
Sometimes, as hard as a decision is, you need to think about what would be the kindest for the animal. At the moment you are stressed with her and what she is doing, and she is stressed by being crated.
I am not sure where you stay, but you might consider getting an animal behaviourist to come and assess your home and the situation and then look at some behavioural modification.
If you keep this dog you will need to do the following:
1 take her on a long walk before going out, so that she is tired
2 take her on a long walk before putting her in the crate at night
3 take her to some classes – obedience, agility, flyball etc
4 try to leave her in a bigger room/s, not in such a small space
5 buy LOTS of toys for her to chew and play with
6 buy interactive toys to stimulate her mind
7 make sure there is a special area that she can use for her business if she is not crated
8 see if there is not a place where you can leave her during the day
9 find a dog park where she can play and interact with other dogs
Finally, remember at no time should you EVER get angry with her, or hit her, scream etc. What she is doing is only upsetting to you. She doesn’t know she is doing anything wrong. Even if she looks “guilty” when you come home, she is responding to your body language and not because she knows what she has done is wrong.
She needs to be praised and rewarded when she does anything right, and everything else ignored. She will then want to do things that got the praise and reward, rather than the naughty things.
I wish you strength in making the right decision which will make both of you happier.
Regards,
Kathy Clayton
Accredited Animal Behaviour Consult
https://yourownvet.com
Pancreatitis is inflammation of the pancreas. The pancreas is an organ that lies under the stomach. It has two main functions:
1. To produce enzymes that digest the food and
2. To produce insulin to regulate blood sugar levels.
When your dog or cats eats a meal, it is broken down partially by chewing, saliva and enzymes in saliva, the churning of the stomach and the stomach acid. Once it leaves the stomach, the food, which now looks like a thick soup, enters the intestine. The pancreas is activated by the secretion of stomach acid to release its enzymes onto the food. It is connected to the intestine by the pancreatic duct which is a tube with a one way valve at the bottom entering the intestine. The enzymes flow down the tube onto the food, and the enzymes cleave the proteins and starches in food into much smaller sizes so that they can be absorbed into the body.
When a pancreas becomes inflamed, it gets ‘leaky’ and the enzymes which should travel straight down the pancreatic duct now leak into the tissue of the pancreas and the organs that it lies up against. They start to digest the pancreas and the surrounding areas. This causes everything to become very irritated, swollen and painful which leads to pain in the abdomen, vomiting, diarrhoea and in severe cases shock and kidney problems.
Pancreatitis is a disease that unfortunately may not have an obvious cause. It may be caused by bacteria that enter the pancreas when the intestine is inflamed and the one way valve that closes the pancreatic duct off from the intestine, opens due to inflammation. Bacteria can cause a septic pancreatitis or a pancreatic abscess. This is rare, however. Sometimes pancreatitis can follow on a viral or bacterial gastroenteritis (inflammation of the stomach and intestines)
Sometimes if your pets eats a meal that is very rich, fatty or rotten, it can lead to pancreatitis. Pets with diabetes mellitis are more prone to developing pancreatitis.
Pets with lymphoma cancer of the gut can also sometimes have concurrent symptoms of pancreatic disease. Pets can have primary pancreatic cancer or cancer that has spread from other organs and this can lead to symptoms of pancreatitis. In many cases, however, there is no obvious cause of the pancreatitis.
The symptoms of pancreatitis are unfortunately very similar to the symptoms of a nasty tummy bug. Only a blood test can differentiate the two.
Severe pancreatitis that leads to death is not that common, but it is common for dogs and cats to be hospitalised and put onto a drip for three days, together with medication for nausea, antacids and pain and sometimes antibiotics. It is also common for it to never really settle down completely, and for patients to get repeated flare ups every few months during which time they may or may be need to be admitted into hospital.
If your vet suspects your dog or cat has pancreatitis, he or she will take a blood test to check for elevated levels of a particular form of an enzyme called lipase in the bloodstream. This type of lipase is only found in the blood when the pancreas is inflamed and ‘leaky’ and escapes into the bloodstream. If that is positive, your vet will keep the blood sample and send it to the lab so that the lab can work out the concentrations of the enzyme in the bloodstream.
Your vet will also run other blood tests to find out of the pancreatitis has affect your pet’s kidneys which can happen in severe cases and also of the liver enzymes and bile are up, which can indicate that the pancreas is swollen and stopping the liver excreting bile by pressing up against the bile duct. (The pancreas and liver can share a common pancreatic and bile duct in some species.) Your vet will also run a cell count of the red and white cells in the bloodstream to check if there are any signs of high levels of white blood cells which can indicate inflammation, infection and cancer, or if there are low levels of white blood cells which can indicate immune deficiency.
Your vet should recommend an ultrasound scan of the abdomen to check the pancreas. What your vet or ultrasonographer will look for on a scan are the following:
A true diagnosis of pancreatitis can only be made with a fine needle biopsy of the pancreas. Elevated levels of pancreatic lipase – known as spec FPL or spec CPL (cats and dogs ) occur whenever there is inflammation of the pancreas. So in a primary pancreatitis, the levels will be high, but in a disease that causes inflammation of the pancreas as a secondary effect of the disease, such as cancer of the gut that has invaded the pancreas, the levels can also be elevated.
A blood test should follow a month later after the pet is better to reassess the levels of spec FPL and spec CPL.
The main thing owners have to be aware of is that once a pet has had pancreatitis, it may be a lifelong condition, and they will most likely have to put their pet on a special low fat diet, quite possibly for the rest of their lives. It is a disease that is likely to flare up periodically for the rest of the pet’s life and it is a case of managing the disease, rather than curing it.
Low fat diets include Royal Canin Gastrointestinal moderate and low calorie food, hills w/d and I/d low fat as well as various intestinal diets such as Hills I/d diet and Royal Canin sensitivity control.
Medication given is usually a combination of painkillers if the abdomen is very sore, antacid drugs and anti-nausea medication. Antibiotics are given if the vet suspects an infection or abscess in the pancreas.
Antacids are given – these are quite important. Because the pancreas is stimulated by stomach acid to release its enzymes and because when it is inflamed, it irritates itself by leaking them enzymes when it is trying to secrete them, blocking stomach acid production helps to settle the pancreas down and allow it to heal. Drugs are given in hospital initially and then the animals are sent home with at least 2 weeks’ worth of antacid drugs.
Anti nausea drugs are given as an inflammed pancreas makes a pet very nauseous.
Animals with moderate to severe pancreatitis must have a drip. This is because there can be toxins produced by an inflamed pancreas which can enter the bloodstream and damage other organs such as the kidneys, leading to shock, microclots forming in the circulation and death. The fluids in the drip wash out the circulation, removing the toxins from where they are pooling in slower moving blood vessels. they can then be detoxified and gotten rid of by the liver or kidneys. The kidneys are especially vulnerable. The drip should stay on for 2-3 days.
Animals are sent home with bland food, antacids, anti nausea drugs and possibly antibiotics.
]]>She’s given you years of love, cuddles and brought you the occasional mouse. Your cat enriches your life in so many ways, and as she grows older it is important to take care of her changing needs so you can have as many happy years together as possible.
Cats become middle-aged at around 8-years-old and become seniors around 10 years. Just like us there are a number of ways in which they age quite normally. Your cat will begin to slow down as she gets older and her hearing can reduce – although you might not be able to tell if she often plays at ignoring you. By 12-years-old it is a good idea to keep your cat indoors to keep her safe. It is important to make and keep regular appointments with your vet so if any of the normal parts of aging becomes a problem you know right away and can have it treated.
An important part of getting the best out of your cat’s later years is a solid, healthy diet. They need quality protein in a food designed for their changing digestion. It should be a quality to protein so they can get the most nutrition out of it. At http://www.viovet.co.uk you can find a variety of foods and supplements for elderly cats, including special ones for cats with specific healthy issues.
Just like us, cats are prone to joint problems as they age and can even get arthritis. After years of running and pouncing you may find that your cat moves around a lot less and doesn’t have the animated spirit she once did. A food like Royal Canin Diets Indoor Mature gives your cat all the nutrition she needs while caring for her joints too. If she worsens, or if directed by your vet, there are many dietary supplements which can help improve the quality of her joints, or can be given as a preventative measure.
As your cat grows older she may develop kidney problems, specifically CKD: Chronic Kidney Disease. Diagnosed when it is advanced, it means that the kidney function is already two-thirds lost. If your cat is diagnosed with CKD there are many foods available that are specifically suited for the condition, to maintain kidney function and keep the condition from worsening. Purina Veterinary Diet NF is just one of many that have been formulated with the CKD cat in mind.
As your cat ages she will change, but her love for you won’t. Give her the best years of her life through a balanced diet and you’ll get even more time with her.
]]>Hip dysplasia is mainly a problem in medium to large breed dogs. The dog breeds most commonly affected are the German Shepherd, Labrador Retriever, St. Bernard and Golden Retriever. It is also becoming more prevalent in certain breeds such as the Rottweiler and the Border Collie. Certain kennel clubs and federations have taken great steps with breeding programmes to reduce the incidence of hip dysplasia in puppies that are registered and tested for the problem. The main problem lies in backyard breeders and people that have a litter at home with their dogs as they may not be aware of, or test for hip dysplasia.
Hip dysplasia is a problem with the ball and socket joint of the hip. The ball should sit snugly in the socket, and be able to rotate easily and glide smoothly within the joint. The ball is kept in place by a central ligament in the middle of the ball which attaches it to the pelvis. But it is also held in place by fitting very snuggly into the joint.
With hip dysplasia, the ball is not perfectly round and the socket may be flatter than normal – in other words, the shape has changed of both the ball and the socket and they do not fit snuggly together any more. When the dog moves the back legs the ball is not properly supported and bounces around inside the hip joint, hitting up against the edges of the pelvic rim. Over time this turns into arthritis due to excessive wear and tear of an unstable joint. In severe cases the owners notice weakness of the back legs from a few months of age, but in milder cases the first sign may be early onset arthritis at the age of about 6 years.
There are many factors that lead to the development of hip dysplasia.
At the moment there isn’t a blood test for hip dysplasia as there are so many factors that affect whether it develops in a predisposed dog or not. The test that is routinely run by proper breeder is x rays that are done on young adult dogs destined for breeding. Their hips are x rayed under general anaesthetic and sent off to a specialist for grading. International hip score grading has change in the past 5 years. Hips used to be graded from 0-4, with 0 being non-existent and 4 being severely dysplastic hips with the ball often lying outside the hip joint altogether. The newer classification classifies the degree of hip dysplasia according to an alphabetic classification, A, aa, aa, b etc.
X rays must be taken under deep sedation or general anaesthetic as the dog’s legs must be straightened out completely and most animals will tend to withdraw the legs if pulled on if they are awake or lightly sedated.
At Cornell university, researchers at Cornell University have developed a new test known as the DLS test for canine hip dysplasia known as the dorsolateral subluxation (DLS) test. It in considered to be more accurate at a younger age than the traditional test. While the traditional OFA test is not accurate before 2 years of age, the DLS test can be accurate as early as 8 months of age. In the DLS test the dog is positioned differently and in a more natural position and thus none of the normal changes seen in hip dysplasia are hidden. The dog is placed on its stomach on a foam rubber pad. There is a hole cut in the pad for the dog’s hind legs. The stifles (or knees) touch the table, and the dog’s femurs are nearly perpendicular to the table. Arranging the dog in a position that mimics its natural posture allows the x-ray to show accurately what the position of the hip joints is. (*2)
The British Veterinary Association uses the following criteria to determine hip score:
Norberg Angle – the angle of the hip joint when the animal is lying down
Subluxation – how much the ball pops out of the socket
Cranial Acetabular Edge – the front edge of the socket – any arthritic change or rounding
Dorsal Acetabular Edge – the top rim of the socket – is it smooth and circular and any arthritic changes
Cranial Effective Acetabular Rim the front rim of the socket – any arthritis changes or rounding off
Acetabular Fossa – is it normal smooth and a normal shape
Caudal Acetabular Edge – the back edge of the socket – is it smooth or rounded and any arthritic changes
Femoral Head/Neck Exostosis – any arthritis round the top part of the leg bone or femur
Femoral Head Recontouring – the shape of the femur head – it should be perfectly round.
The lower the score, the less the degree of dysplasia present. The minimum (best) score for each hip is zero and the maximum (worst) is 53, giving a range for the total of 0 to 106. Each hip is scored separately under the BVA, so within the UK scores are usually displayed as two numbers separated by a forward slash (e.g. 2/6). The scores are combined to provide a score for international comparison.
OFA (USA) | FCI (European) | BVA (UK/Australia) | SV (Germany) |
E | A-1 | 0-4 (no > 3/hip) | Normal |
G | A-2 | 5-10 (no > 6/hip) | Normal |
F | B-1 | 11-18 | Normal |
B | B-2 | 19-25 | Fast Normal |
M | C | 26-35 | Noch Zugelassen |
Mod | D | 36-50 | Mittlere |
S | E | 51-106 | Schwere |
(*1)
There are numerous options for managing and treating hip dysplasia out there. What is best for your pet depends on how severely your pet is affected, his or her age, your budget, whether or not your pet in insured or not, the weight of your pet , whether one or both sides are affected and whether your pet has healthy joints (other than the hips ) in his or her legs.
There are both surgical and medical options available. Severely affected dogs often need surgery. In early or mild cases, or cases in which the owners have opted against surgery, medical management is warranted.
This manages the mobility and pain seen with hip dysplasia but isn’t a cure so often are things that continue for the remainder of the dog’s life.
Some surgery can be curative and others help to control the dysplasia and pain.
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Slipped discs are very common in certain breeds of dogs, especially those with long backs. The breeds most often affected are the Dachshund, the Pekingese, certain terrier breeds and the Pug. Dachshunds and Pekingeses are chondrodystrophic breeds with a long spinal column and short, crooked legs and joints. Discs between their vertebrae will degenerate early.
Healthy discs act like flexible cushions between vertebrae. (5) As they age, discs lose pliability and harden. (4)This happens unusually early in certain breeds like the Dachshund and the Pekingese, often between three and six years of age. When discs are damaged, this is called Inter vertebral Disc Disease (IVDD). In IVDD, the disc herniates through its outer shell, like the inside of a grape popping out its skin. This causes a sudden pressure against the spinal cord. (3)(4) The risk is worsened by obesity, jumping, rough handling, or intense exercise. (1)
You must keep your dog’s weight normal.
Keep him from jumping on or off furniture, and climbing stairs. (3)
Exercise his muscles and legs daily, but (5) don’t allow things that stress the back, such as sitting up and begging.
Use a ramp to allow access to furniture.
When holding him, keep the back horizontal by holding them like a football, with the hind quarters under your arm, and your hands under the chest.(2)
Difficulty standing or with stairs
Hunched walking
Yelping or biting when lifted, due to neck and back pain
Hind leg weakness or in coordination
Total hindquarters paralysis
Inability to defecate, or urinate.(3)(4)
These symptoms can be seen with other spinal diseases, so an examination by a vet is needed.(4)
A good neurological exam allows your vet to get an idea of where in the back or brain the problem is and then focus x rays and diagnostic tests on those particular areas. These tests should be performed by a vet only to prevent further spinal injury.
The skin is pricked with a needle to see if the dog can feel light pain. The toes are then pinched softly then very hard to see if the dog can feel it. If the leg withdraws this only indicates an intact reflex, not a sensation, but if he yelps or nips, it shows he retains deep pain. (4) The loss of deep pain signals the need for immediate surgery.
The paw is placed on its top surface to see if the dog recognizes and can feel the paw is in the wrong position and then if it can right the foot.
The pet is held up and then its paws are placed below a surface so that the top of the paws touch the underside of a table, for example. The normal response is for the dog to pick up the foot and put it on top of the table. If there is spinal cord damage the dog may not do this.
This allows the vet to see if your dog knows where the legs are in relation to his body and the ground. Dogs with slipped discs frequently stumble and may drag the legs slightly, or may even not use the legs at all in severe cases. Your vet will observe the dogs walking and then see if he or she can cope with turning round, changing direction and stopping and starting. This gives an indication of the severity of the spinal injury.
Your vet will see if your dog can support weight on two legs – the front two, the back two and also the legs on either side of the body.
This test gives an idea of where the slipped disc is localised but it isn’t a hard and fast rule. The skin is pricked and normally, the skin will react by shivering slightly. Often, at the level of the lesion, the skin will not feel the prick and thus not react.
The patella reflex is performed on both back legs to see if the dog reacts and how much or how little he or she reacts to tapping. This gives an idea of whether there is nerve damage on the pathway of the reflex. A similar test can be performed in the front legs but it is not as reliable.
These are nerves that originate in the brain and go to and from the important places in the head, including the nose, eyes, ears face, mouth, tongue, throat and then also go down the neck into the body to regulate the heart, blood pressure and gut function for example. Because we know where these nerves come out in the brain, it allows a vet to pinpoint if there is disease in the brain that could be affecting balance and proprioception and thus affecting fore and hind leg function.
X-rays definitely aid diagnosis. Your vet will preferably sedate your pet and take a minimum of 2 views, one from the side of the pet and one either lying on his back or his stomach. The spinal column is checked for narrowing of disc spaces, spondylosis (a bridge of bone between two vertebrae indicating instability ), any sign of disease in the bones, and that the vertebral canal is smooth and even and also check for any arthritic changes. Specialists may also do an x ray with dye known as a Myelogram or a MRI scan to locate the damaged disc. Myelograms do carry a risk of seizures and both the myelogram and MRI scan should be done under general anaesthetic or very deep sedation.
IVDD is an emergency. If your dog looks like he can’t walk, don’t leave it, even for a few hours. The longer pressure lasts on the spinal cord and the more severe it is, the greater the chance of permanent problems. Chances of improvement drop within hours, so don’t wait!! (3)
In mild cases, steroids, muscle relaxants and anti-inflammatories are used to reduce pain and swelling. (1)(5) If your dog has an episode of acute onset sever back pain, but he or she is still able to use the legs and bear weight on them, then it is recommended in many cases that they are kept in hospital for a few days. They basically stay in a cage and don’t move around a lot. Often these injured dogs get insecure at home and try to follow the owners around, doing their backs more harm than good. If they don’t rest, it is possible they could get worse and definitely need expensive spinal surgery.
In severe cases, or in cases that rapidly deteriorate, surgery is indicated. Removing damaged disc material is delicate, specialist surgery and can make a huge difference. Dogs may need a cart to get around if paralysed (1) A new minimally invasive procedure called “Percutaneous laser disk ablation” has been developed at the Oklahoma State University Veterinary Hospital.(1)
Up to 78% of dachshunds recover in time from IVDD without surgery. They should be confined for at least six weeks. Water therapy, acupuncture and chiropractic treatments help. Treating IVDD is expensive, so get pet insurance!! (5) Dachshunds that don’t recover can do well on wheels to support their hindquarters, but it depends on the individual temperament of the dog as to how they will cope. They also can’t be left in their harness all the time, so it can be labour intensive to look after them. Many do very well, however.
Pugs are prone to genetic malformations of the vertebrae themselves – they may be fused to form a butterfly shape, known as a butterfly vertebra, which can put pressure on the spinal cord. These dogs show symptoms of back pain and paralysis which can come and go but is sometimes irreversible. It is important that their backs are x rayed to make a proper diagnosis and possibly an MRI scan performed to assess how much of the spinal cord is being compressed under the malformed vertebrae. Mild cases may respond to steroids (cortisone.)
This is a disease that is hard to understand as it can lead to a sudden and severe paralysis in dogs. It is almost like a ‘stroke’ in the spinal cord. In this disease, a small piece of cartilage or disc material forms a embolus or clot in one of the small arteries that supplies an area of spinal cord. It can happen anywhere in the spinal cord and have no pre exiting symptoms and a perfectly healthy dog can suddenly be a totally paralysed one.
Sometimes with fibrocartilagenous emboli, the paralysis can affect one side of the body more than the other, depending on where it is located. X rays and initial diagnostic tests usually appear completely normal. The only way to diagnose it properly is with an MRI scan. Mildly and moderately affected dogs can recover over time with cage rest and physiotherapy. They can benefit from ant inflammatory drugs as well in some cases, at the discretion of your vet.
Tumours or cancer of the spine can occur either within the spinal cord, around the spinal cord (inside the vertebral canal ) or in the bones of the vertebrae. Symptoms vary, in many cases there is a gradual loss of the use of the legs, either back legs, front legs or both, sometimes there is pain, and in some cases (for example a cancer of the bone causing weakening of the bone in the vertebrae and a sudden collapse of the bone onto the cord ) sudden or acute paralysis. The prognosis is usually guarded to poor as surgery is difficult to impossible.
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Hi there,
The fact that your dog attacks his penis is indeed a unique problem.
What worries me is that this could actually be a medical problem. He would have something wrong with his penis – but you do say that you have seen two vets. This behaviour is not normal, and I’m sure that he is in some pain.
But you also don’t mention is your dog is neutered? I totally disagree with the dog trainer, that says he needs to get married! The best thing would be to get him neutered, so that he doesn’t get rushes of testosterone which could be a cause of his doing this behaviour. He also will get urges if he smells a bitch in season nearby, and this could exacerbate the problem.
Being a mixed Shepherd, he does have a lot of energy, so he needs a lot of stimulation to get any frustrations out of his system. Dogs also can get aggressive when they have rushes of testosterone – another reason for neutering.
Before going on Prozac, you can try some homeopathic remedies. I am not sure if you have a homeopathic chemist near to where you live? If you do, ask them to make something up to calm your dog down.
Strong medication should only be a last resort.
It is very difficult for me to give advice over the internet, as I have not seen the dog or the problem. When I do a home visit I can spend up to two hours or more as I need to actually see what is happening.
I hope that my reply above helps you. I still strongly advise neutering.
Regards,
Kathy Clayton
Chairman of the Animal Behaviour Consultants of South Africa
https://yourownvet.com
Thinking of getting a puppy? We thought we would compile a list of the most common diseases of dog breeds seen in everyday practice with specific breeds so you can do your research properly. We are also listing known but uncommon conditions that have been seen in certain breed in italics. Bear in mind that certain diseases may be more common in some parts of the world than others. If your breed or pet’s disease isn’t here, don’t despair as this list will grow over time. Anyone wishing to add to the list please feel free to e mail us at vet@yourownvet.com
Hip and elbow dysplasia
Gastric Torsion (twisted stomach) due to them being a large breed, deep chested breed.
Hypothyroidism
Corneal Dystrophy – marks in the cornea that do not affect vision
Dilated Cardiomyopathy
Congenital chylothorax
Hereditary Afghan Myelopathy
Seasonal nasal depigmentation
Panosteitis (growing pains)
Cancer: Perianal gland tumour and Osteosarcoma
Skin Cancer in hot climates – squamous cell carcinoma due to the lack of pigment in their skin
Mast cell Tumours
Allergies and Eczema
They can be fighters so can be prone to getting bite wounds in some cases
Hip Dysplasia
Collie Nose
Collie Eye Anomaly
Hip and Elbow Dysplasia
Hearing and Eye problems in dogs homozygous for the Merle gene
Neuronal Ceroid Lipofuschinosis (NCL) RARE
Trapped neutrophil syndrome (TNS) RARE
Heatstroke in hot climates due to the short nose which makes it hard for them to lose heat easily
Butterfly and Hemi Vertebrae
Eczema and Allergic skin disease
Eye problems
Sensoneural Deafness – they are born deaf
Brachycephalic Syndrome – shortened airways making them more likely to snore and need tubing under anaesthetic
Luxating Patella
Mast Cell tumours
Histiocytomas – benign lumps in younger dogs
Dilated cardiomyopathy (Heart problem due to thinning of the heart muscle)
Various tumours – Boxers are VERY prone to many different types of cancer including Mast cell Tumours
Sensitivity to the drug Acepromazine (sedative for travel and noise)
Hypothyroidism
Cruciate Ligament Disease
Boxer Ulcer – chronic non healing ulcers on the eye
Hip Dysplasia
Aortic and Subaortic Valvular Stenosis
Degenerative Myelopathy
Ehlers Danlos Syndrome (cutaneous asthenia)
Benign hard lumps in the mouth – the main problem they cause is plaque when they grow over the teeth. Known as epuli.
Gastric torsion and volvulus (twisted stomach) as they are a deep chested breed
White Boxers can be genetically deaf
Pyloric Stenosis – delayed emptying of the stomach causes projectile vomiting and weight loss
Histiocytic Ulcerative Colitis – leading to diarrhoea
Heatstroke in hot climates due to their short nose which makes it hard for them to lose heat easily
Increased general anaesthetic risk due to airway collapse during recovery – they should always be tubed
Pyloric Stenosis – the bottom valve of the stomach doesn’t open leading to vomiting
Difficulty in giving birth – more than 50% will need a caesarian section
Difficulty in breeding – they often need assistance
Corkscrew tails sometimes cause problems and irritation as they can lie close to the anus and the feces get stuck between the two.
Skin cancer in white Bulldogs in hot climates
Allergies and eczema
Hypothyroidism
Various rare genetic heart problems
Vaginal Hyperplasia
Brachycephalic airway syndrome – overlong soft palate, poorly developed nostrils and collapsing windpipe (trachea )
Demodectic Mange
Harelip and Cleft palate
Entropion
Cataracts
Cherry Eye – the teargland in the corner of the eye becomes inflamed and pops out
Dry eye – Keratoconjunctivitis sicca – inadequate tear production
Skin infections – fold dermatitis, furunculosis (deep pustules), pyoderma of the muzzle (pussy infection), acne on the chin and muzzle, interdigital dermatitis
Skin Cancer from the sun due to the lack of pigment in their skin
Pyoderma ( deep pustules and boils under the skin linked to allergic skin disease)
Allergic skin disease – eczema, rashes
Foreign bodies – these dogs swallow foreign objects including plastic bags, underwear and pieces of plastic or metal. These often have to be surgically removed
Some bullies tend to fight with other dogs and should be loners – Bite Wounds
Some bullies can be prone to developmental kidney disease – either polycystic kidney disease or Bull Terrier hereditary nephritis and subsequent kidney failure
Obsessive neurological diseases – spinning and tail chasing
Epilepsy
Neurological rage – a seizure type disorder
Primary lens luxation in minature Bull terriers
Aortic stenosis and mitral valve dysplasia – heart conditions
Luxating Patella
Ear infections – otitis externa as the hanging ears don’t ventilate and dry out if water gets into them
Cushing’s Disease
Luxating Patella
Dental disease – they are prone to getting rotten teeth and need frequent brushing and descaling under anaesthetic
Heart disease – mitral valve insufficiency that can progress to heart failure
Lip fold dermatitis
Dental disease – double rows of teeth, retained deciduous canine teeth
Open Fontanalles – the skullbones never close making the brain more susceptible to injury if they get hit on the head
Hydrocephalus – water on the brain
Luxating patella
Their eyes are more prone to injury and proptosis (prolapsed eyeball) as they are very shallow
Necrotizing Meningioencephalitis
Reverse sneezing – fits of a type of wheezy type cough often set of by allergies
Hypoglycaemia (low blood sugar) especially in small pups
Cryptorchidism – retained testicle – testes doesn’t ‘drop’
Tracheal collapse
Pancreatitis
Bladder Stones
Oral and skin melanomas and other tumours including lymphoma and stomach cancer
They can be prone to fighting – bite wounds
Hip dysplasia
Diabetes mellitis
Eye disease –Entropion, Glaucoma and Cataracts
Autoimmune disease – where the immune system attacks the normal tissues of the body eg. Canine pemphigus
Hypothyroidism
Skin disease – alopecia X (they just go bald for no reason )
Patella luxation
Spinal disc prolapse and paralysis
Dental disease – teeth need frequent cleaning, some get carnassial tooth root abscesses
Heart murmurs most often due to mitral valve disease progressing to heart failure
Cushing’s disease
Obesity
Ehler’s Danlos syndrome
Loss of hair on the ears and tail as a genetic trait.
Skin and coat problems, General poor spotty coat, bald in patches, skin infections (pyoderma), irritation and licking of the feet
Splitting of the skin of the tips of the ears.
Haemorragic gastroenteritis – sudden onset bloody diarrhoea
Diabetes mellitis
Bladder stones and other stones lodging in the urinary tract
Lipomas – benign fatty tumours under the skin
Eye problems – glaucoma, distichiasis, entropion, progressive retinal degeneration
Patent ductus arteriosus
Food allergies
Hypothyroidism
Cataracts
Dental disease
Cancer – squamous cell carcinoma and cutaneous haemangiosarcoma in hot climates
Skin allergies and atopy
Cancers including tumours of the nailbeds on the feet, malignant histiocytosis
Recurring ear infections (otitis externa)
Hip and Elbow Dysplasia
Hypothyroidism
Eye problems – glaucoma, goniodysgenesis, cataracts and hairs rubbing abnormally on the eyes – entropion, ectropion, distichiasis, trichiasis.
Arthritis and spondylosis
Hip Dysplasia
Gastric Torsion in deep chested older Shepherds
Spleen and Heart Cancer ( Haemangiosarcoma)
Pannus – black membrane grows over eyes
German Shepherd Pyoderma
Diarrhoea that recurs frequently
Epilepsy
Elbow dysplasia
Otitis externa – recurring ear infections
Perianal Fistula – painful wounds that spontaneously develop round the anus that bleed and pus
Sebaceous Cysts
Congenital megaesophagus
Otitis externa – recurring ear infections
Obesity
Hip and Elbow Dysplasia
Skin allergies, lick granulomas and hotspots
Lipomas – benign fatty lumps under the skin
Torsion of the stomach and bloat
Diabetes mellitis
Addison’s disease
Hypothyroidism
Epilepsy
Eye diseases – progressive retinal atrophy, retinal dysplasia, entropion, glaucoma, eyelid tumours, distichiasis, corneal dystrophy
Heart diseases – Cardiomyopathy and subaortic stenosis
Cancer – Haemangiosarcoma, lymphoma, osteosarcoma, mastocytoma, spindle cell carcinoma
Megaesophagus, cricopharyngeal dysplasia
Immune mediated hemolytic anaemia
Gastric torsion (twisted stomach)
Developmental bone problems due to their large size
May be more prone to bone cancer due to their size
Hypothyroidism
Wobblers Syndrome
Twisted stomach – gastric torsion, dilatation and volvulus (GDV) due to them being a larger deep chested breed.
Demodectic mange
Senstive to general anaesthetics due to low body fat percentage
Heart failure from Dilated Cardiomyopathy
Developmental bone problems due to their large size
Hip and Elbow dysplasia
May be more prone to bone cancer due to their size
Eczema and general skin related allergic disease
Cancer – skin cancer (squamous cell carcinoma) in hot climates due to little pigment on the belly
Mitral valve insufficiency which can progress to heart failure
Teeth need frequent cleaning
Ear problems often exacerbated because they love to swim
Allergic skin disease exacerbated because of constant wetting
Hotspots – acute moist eczema often on the face and neck
Obesity
Hip and elbow Dysplasia
Epilepsy
Diabetes mellitis
Pancreatitis
Eye problems – retinal degeneration and blindness, retinal dysplasia and bilateral cataract
Melanoma
Hypothyroidism
Dental Disease – retained deciduous canines, double rows of incisor teeth
Hydrocephalus
Open Fontanelle
Higher anaesthetic risk due to small body size and short coat – they lose heat easily
Reverse sneezing
Luxating Patella
Cushing’s Disease
Heart murmurs often in the mitral valve which can progress to congestive heart failure
Dental disease – frequent cleaning needed
Cysts and lumps in the skin
Eye problems – ulcers on the eye
Pannus
Proptosis – prolapsed eyeball
Spinal disease and Disc prolapse
Cysts on the body
Dental disease – frequent cleaning needed and retained deciduous canine teeth
Mitral valve insufficiency which can progress to Cardiac Failure
Luxating Patella
Diabetes Mellitis
Malformed Vertebrae and other back issues
Pannus – black membrane grows over the eyes
Facial Fold Dermatitis
Respiratory issues – elongated soft palates make them more likely to snore and suffer from heatstroke as well as airway collapse
Mast cell Tumours
Obesity
Prolapsed eyeball – Proptosis
Ulcers on the eye
Necrotizing Meningioencephalitis ( Pug Dog Encephalitis) – condition causing seizures and other brain problems in pugs.
Demodectic Mange
Hip and Elbow Dysplasia
Dermoid Sinus – where there is an area of skin that grows down from the skin into the neck and tissues of the back
Ear and tail injuries that are difficult and take a long time to heal
Heavy Ridgebacks are prone to infected elbow calluses
Gastric torsion (GDV – gastro dilatation and volvulus)
Hip and Elbow Dysplasia
Bone Cancer – Osteosarcoma
They are prone to hotspots on the cheeks and neck
Rottweiler Puppies are prone to a severe version of the Parvo virus
Addison’s Disease
Mitral valve insufficiency which can lead to congestive heart failure
Lion jaw – condition in which during growth a lot of extra bone is deposited round the joint where the jaw hinges onto the skull – very painful
Demodectic mange in adults due to immunodeficiency
Entropion – the eyelashes turn inwards onto the eye causing recurring tearing and eye infections
Facial fold eczema
Shar Pei fever – disease affecting the joints and limbs causing fever and swelling
Allergic skin disease
These dogs can be fighters – recurring bite wounds
Hip and Elbow Dysplasia
Bone Cancer due to their large size
Heart Problems – Dilated Cardiomyopathy due to their large size
Developmental bone problems due to their large size
Pica – eating stones and other strange objects
Hip and elbow dysplasia
Arbitrary skin wounds due to their short coat, and intensely hyperactive nature, they seem to be prone to injuries including bleeding and torn ears and tail tip injuries.
Severe skin allergies and yeast infections with a greasy itchy coat and thickened grey skin and recurring ear infections
Demodex infections
Hypothyroidism
Cushing’s disease
Addison’s disease
Diabetes
Dental issues – teeth should be frequently cleaned
Mitral valve insufficiency which can progress to heart failure
Various skin lumps
Dental disease – they can be prone to retained deciduous teeth and double rows of teeth. Their teeth require frequent scaling
Heart murmurs most often due to Mitral Valve Disease leading to heart failure
Warts and small skin lumps
Sensitive Stomach – they can be prone to recurring bouts of vomiting and bloody diarrhoea preceded by spasming.
Portohepatic shunts – developmental problem where the blood supply bypasses the liver
Open fontanelles in the Teacup sizes
Hydrocephalus – water on the brain – more common in the teacup size
Luxating Patella
Hypoglycaemia (low blood sugar) in smaller teacup puppies
Demodectic mange and ringworm in adults due to immunodeficiency
REFERENCES
http://www.ukboxerdogs.co.uk/iandi.html#bloat
http://www.americanboxerclub.org/DM.html
http://www.gopetsamerica.com/boxer/boxer-health-problems.aspx
http://www.bulldoginformation.com/bulldogs-hereditary-defects.html”
http://www.petplace.com/dog-breeds/english-bulldog-diseases.aspx
http://www.petplace.com/dog-breeds/Afghan-Hound-diseases.aspx
http://www.dogbreedhealth.com/afghan-hound/
http://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/download/4789/afghanext.pdf
http://voices.yahoo.com/common-health-problems-bull-terriers-4989404.html?cat=16″
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bull_Terrier_%28Miniature%29
http://www.healthypet.com/FindAPet/BreedDescription.aspx?fbr_key=5F72703A-4140-4210-9F5A-23AA990EBF46
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chow_Chow
http://www.webvet.com/main/breed/dog/chow-chow
http://www.petplace.com/dog-breeds/dachshund-diseases.aspx
http://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/download/1553/hsflatcoatedretriever.pdf
http://www.flatcoat.com/health.htm
http://www.dogbreedhealth.com/flat-coated-retriever/
http://labradornet.com/diseases.html
http://golden-retriever.org/elibrary/files/C8.HealthconditionsanddiseasescommontotheGoldenRetriever.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_Retriever
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For causes of ear infections in dogs and cats, please see our previous article, ‘Causes of ear infections in dogs and cats‘
Treating ear infections first of all involves diagnosing the cause of the ear infection and treating it. Many pet owners think that if their pet had an ear infection before and the drops they got from their vet worked the last time, if they buy more of the same drops the drops will cure it. But not all ear infections are the same, even if the discharge looks similar to a previous ear infection. Ear drops on the market can either contain a specific antifungal or antibacterial or, be a simple flushing drop with an altered pH (usual over the counter type ear drops), or have a combination of an antifungal, antibiotic and a cortisone (steroid) to treat allergies. They can get quite pricey so its worthwhile getting the ear infection properly diagnosed prior to putting any ear drops in.
If your pet has a very severe ear infection, recurring ear infections or an ear infection that just doesn’t clear up, it’s worth working it up properly at the vet. This involves dropping your pet off for the day at your vet on an empty tummy. Your pet will be given a light general anaesthetic and a tube placed down its throat. Your vet will then do the following:
X rays of the head and ear canals will tell your vet if there are any polyps or growths in the ears which could be causing the infection as well as checking the health of the external ear canal, the middle ear and the inner ear which is inside the skull at the base of it. If your vet has access to MRI it can be done instead of x rays and is often better.
The ear should be thoroughly cleaned and flushed with either an ear cleanser or saline (if the eardrum is ruptured) Your vet may choose to instill and ear ointment at this time based on the swab or may decide to wait for the lab results to come back.
Once the lab results are back, your vet will give you a call and prescribe medication to treat the infection. Sometimes an ear may look horribly infected but no bacteria or yeasts are grown at all. In these cases there is a strong suspicion of allergy causing the problem. Allergies are also suspected as being the underlying cause of ear infections when a dog gets recurring ear infections despite all the proper steps being taken to choose the correct antibiotic/antifungal, the ear being properly cleaned out and no other underlying contributing factor (such as a growth blocking the ear canal or very thickened skin in the ear canals) is present.
In those cases your vet will recommend allergy testing. Allergy testing is done by either doing a blood test or a skin test where multiple areas of skin are pricked with different things that could cause allergies , and how much reaction occurs around the pricks is an indication of how allergic your pet is to things such as grass, moulds, dander, dust mites etc.
The blood test involves taking a single sample, and sending it to a lab where they test the blood for reactions to common things that cause allergies. Dogs and cats can be allergic to many different things simultaneously.
The most common things I have seen dogs and cats being are allergic to are:
Hypoallergenic food is completely different and is actually made of what is known as hydrolyzed protein – this means protein that has been predigested into very short chains of protein or amino acids which are basic building blocks of protein. The reason for this is that an animal’s body can only develop allergies to large protein molecules and thus will be unable to be allergic to the food.
Medication to treat ear infections in dogs and cats involves the ear drops described above, ear washes, antibiotics injections and tablets, antifungal tablets , anti inflammatories and steroids (cortisone). These should all be prescribed by a vet once the specific disease has been diagnosed. In many cases the skin is so thickened and the infection so deep seated that a long course is prescribed. It is very important that owners do not stop the medication on their own if the pet ‘looks better’ as a resistant ear infection will come straight back again and be far more difficult to treat the second time around. Middle ear infections always need antibiotics and cannot be treated with ear drops.
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A recurring ear infection in your pet is one of the more expensive and most frustrating animal diseases for pet owners to deal with. There are many causes of ear infections in dogs and cats, from simple ear mites to food allergies and cancerous growths down the ear canal. Some are easily fixed, but others require months to years of treatment and sadly, some are never fully controlled and eventually lead to permanent ear damage and loss of hearing.
The fleshy part of the ear we all see is only half of the full extent of the ear. The fleshy part is called the pinna and is a layer of skin over cartilage, and in the middle going down into the skull is the ear canal. The ear canal has two parts – a vertical part we all see and then at right angles to the, a horizontal part which leads directly to the eardrum. The abrupt change in direction of the ear canal helps prevent injury to the eardrum so that, a long stick, for example that pokes down the ear will seldom hit the eardrum but it also means that smaller objects like grass awns can easily get lodged down there.
The eardrum lies between the ear canal and the middle ear which contains three bones which conduct sound into the skull. Inside the skull behind the middle ear lies the inner ear which contains areas for hearing and balance, the semi circular canals and the cochlea. Fluid inside the middle ear for example in an ear infection, often makes an animal very deaf as the bones cannot conduct sounds properly. Inflammation or infection in the inner ear can cause loss of balance and hearing as well. The 8th cranial nerve feeds directly into the brain from the inner ear and conducts information on hearing and balance. Animals with inner ear infections often feel nauseous, dizzy, have no balance and their eyes may flick from side to side. (nystagmus)
By far the most common cause of ear infections in dogs and cats, especially ear infections that keep on recurring is ALLERGIC SKIN DISEASE.
Animals that have red or itchy skins can also get red itchy ears, and red itchy ears tend to become moist inside because of the inflammation. Animals with dermatitis or skin allergies often have a genetically poor skin barrier. (layer on the skin’s surface that tends to keep bacteria out) A warm, moist environment, coupled with a poor skin barrier allows bacteria and yeasts to thrive and multiply, causing an ear infection. Allergic ear disease typically gets better when eardrops or steroids (cortisone) are used, then flares up again soon after the medication finishes. Animals with allergic ears often do well on a hypoallergenic diet as food allergies often show up as ear infections.
(Otodectes cynotis) are commonly seen in young kittens and puppies that have come from places with poor hygiene and or multiple pet households. These animals typically shake the head and scratch the ears a lot and the dirt in the ear canal can vary from thick flakes to brown and crumbly. Mites can be very contagious but luckily are easily treated. Your vet may prescribe ear drops to soothe the ears but also a drop that gets put on the back of the neck that will last a month and will kill the ear mites. (Revolution, Stronghold, Advocate) You may need to use the drop monthly up to 3 times to get of stubborn ear mites. If you suspect your pet has ear mites you should have a vet check the scaly dry discharge in the ears under the microscope to confirm this.
The most common things that get lodged down the ears canal are small things like GRASS AWNS. These awns have tiny spikes on them that stick to the skin inside the ear canal so that the pet cannot dislodge them by shaking the head. If your vet suspects a grass awn, he/she will have to sedate your pet, examine the ear canal and remove it.
Ears that have a bacterial infection in them are smelly and often filled with yellow or brown pus. They can be very painful and inflammed as well. Most BACTERIAL EAR INFECTIONS are not primary infections but are secondary to some other cause, for example allergies or trauma from a foreign body lodged down the ear. In rare cases a resistant bacteria can be the cause of an ear infection. If your vet suspects a primary or resistant bacterial ear infection, he/she will take a swab from the ear canal and send it to the lab for culture to check which antibiotic is the best one to use to treat the infection and for how long.
Yeasts (Malassiezia most commonly) like to grow where it is warm and humid, so an inflamed ear is ideal for them to thrive in. Yeast infections can be very itchy and animals shake their heads a lot. the ears often stink and have a sour, fishy smell.There is often a lot of discharge in the ear which can vary from greasy brown to pussy. As with bacterial infections, yeast infections tend to be secondary to other causes.
Some dogs with anal gland issues are prone to getting ear infections
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